FINANCIAL TIMES — RICK OWENS: THE FASHION DESIGNER TALKS PLATFORM BOOTS, PATISSERIE AND BEING “TIDY AS A PUNCTUATION MARK” — OCTOBER 4, 2025 — By SARA SEMIC

MY PERSONAL STYLE SIGNIFIER

IS MY HAIR – I’VE ALWAYS DYED IT BLACK AND I’VE BEEN STRAIGHTENING IT FOR AT LEAST 30 YEARS. AND MY PLATFORM BOOTS; THEY’RE A LITTLE BIT RIDICULOUS AND THEY REPRESENT BAD TASTE, SO IT’S MY SMALL PROTEST AGAINST THE AESTHETIC STANDARDS OF OUR CULTURE, WHICH CAN BE A LITTLE BIT STRAIGHT AND NARROW. WHEN I’M WALKING THROUGH AN AIRPORT IN BLACK PLATFORM BOOTS, I WANT SOME 11-YEAR-OLD SISSY TO SEE ME AND KNOW THAT THEY CAN DO WHATEVER THEY WANT WHEN THEY GROW UP. WHAT I’M PROPOSING IS NOT A FANTASY, IT IS A VALID AND VIABLE WAY OF LIVING. IT MIGHT BE A BIT MUCH FOR SOME PEOPLE, BUT FOR OTHERS IT MIGHT BE LIBERATING.

THE LAST THING I BOUGHT AND LOVED

WAS A SELECTION OF LITTLE BRONZE BOXES AND TEA VESSELS AT OGATA THE LAST TIME I WAS IN TOKYO. I USUALLY DON’T LIKE KNICK-KNACKS – OR TEA – BUT THESE WERE JUST SO EXQUISITE I COULDN’T HELP MYSELF. BUT I KEEP THEM INSIDE A MINIBAR IN MY DRESSING ROOM SO I DONT SEE THEM ALL THE TIME.

THE PLACE THAT MEANS A LOT TO ME

IS LUXOR IN EGYPT. I GO EVERY YEAR. I LOVE A PYRAMID BECAUSE THEY MAKE ME FEEL INSIGNIFICANT AND REMIND ME THAT ANY CONCERNS WILL, AT SOME POINT, BE HISTORY AND THERE’LL BE SOMEONE ELSE IN OUR PLACE, MOVING ON. THERE’S SOMETHING VERY REASSURING ABOUT THAT.

AND THE BEST SOUVENIRS I’VE BROUGHT HOME

ARE SOME LIGHTER HOLDERS THAT MY WIFE MICHÈLE AND I FOUND ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD IN MOROCCO ABOUT 10 YEARS AGO. THEY’RE LIKE GOAT HORNS BUT THEY HAVE THIS KIND OF EMBELLISHED METAL CAP THAT YOU CAN STICK A REGULAR BIC LIGHTER IN. THEY’RE VERY ELEGANT.

THE ITEM OF CLOTHING I’LL KEEP TO PASS ON

IS – AND YOUR READERS ARE GOING TO HATE THIS – A BLACK MONKEY FUR COAT THAT I KEEP ON THE BACK OF MY OFFICE CHAIR IN PARIS BECAUSE CONTEMPORARY OFFICE CHAIRS ARE JUST TOO CONTEMPORARY FOR ME. IT’S FROM THE 1920S OR 1930S AND HAS THIS KIND OF SLEEK ELEGANCE THAT I’VE ALWAYS LOVED, BUT IT’S SAVAGE AND BARBARIC AT THE SAME TIME. I USED TO WEAR IT IN MY YOUTH WHEN I WAS MORE FLAMBOYANT, THEN MICHÈLE WORE IT FOR A WHILE AND IT’S ONE OF THE FEW THINGS THAT WE’VE HELD ONTO. EVERYTHING ELSE WE’VE WORN KIND OF DISAPPEARS – INCLUDING ALL MY ARCHIVES. YOUNG PEOPLE DIDN’T THINK ABOUT ARCHIVES, I JUST THOUGHT ABOUT SURVIVING AND SELLING ANYTHING I COULD TO PAY THE RENT.

MY STYLE ICON

IS THE INTERIOR DESIGNER JEAN-MICHEL FRANK. THE WAY HE MADE THINGS, HIS WHOLE AESTHETIC – THERE WAS AN AUSTERITY AND A RESTRAINT, BUT IT WAS OPULENT. I READ THAT HE SUPPOSEDLY HAD 40 IDENTICAL GREY SUITS IN HIS CLOSET, AND I ALWAYS ADMIRED THAT. THAT IS SOMEBODY WHO KNOWS THEMSELVES AND IS COMMITTED TO WHO THEY ARE, BUT IT’S ALSO WONDERFULLY EXTRAVAGANT. AND THE FURNITURE DESIGNS THAT HE DID – THE LINES WERE SO PURE, THE MATERIALS SO GLAMOROUS AND THE QUALITY AND CRAFTSMANSHIP SO METICULOUS, BUT IT WASN’T FLASHY. A LOT OF THE TIME I THINK TO MYSELF, WHAT WOULD JEAN-MICHEL FRANK DO?

I’VE ALWAYS WORN

A UNIFORM. IT’S PRETTY MUCH ALWAYS BEEN BLACK SHORTS AND BLACK BOOTS. IN THE PAST FIVE OR SIX YEARS, I’VE BECOME A LITTLE MORE EXTREME. WHEN I WAS YOUNG, I USED TO WEAR THINGS THAT WERE MORE GREY AND FADED BUT AS I GOT GREY AND FADED, I FELT LIKE I NEEDED TO DRESS A BIT SHARPER AND MORE CONSTRUCTED. NOW MY CLOTHES ARE MORE FORMAL, TAILORED AND BLACK. I DON’T NEED TO ADD TO THE CLUTTER OF THE WORLD, I CAN BE AS TIDY AS A BLACK PUNCTUATION MARK. AND I STARTED WEARING VERY LOW V-NECKS – BECAUSE AS LONG AS I’VE GOT THESE TITS, I’M GOING TO SHOW THEM.

THE BOOK I’M READING AGAIN

IS DANCER FROM THE DANCE BY ANDREW HOLLERAN. IT CAME OUT IN ’78. IT’S A VERY MOVING, THEATRICAL BOOK ABOUT CHARACTERS FROM THE GAY SUBCULTURE OF NEW YORK MOVING THROUGH LIFE PRE-AIDS. IT’S BEEN CALLED THE GREAT GATSBY OF GAY LITERATURE AND THERE’S ONE LINE THAT SUMS UP THE WHOLE BOOK – THAT THEY WERE “SO BENT ON PLEASURE THEY WERE DRIVING RIGHT THROUGH HAPPINESS”. IT’S VERY LYRICAL BUT, AT THE SAME TIME, KIND OF DOOMED. I FIRST READ IT BEFORE I’D EVEN BEEN TO NEW YORK. IT REPRESENTED THIS GLAMOROUS, SOPHISTICATED URBAN LIFE THAT I WANTED TO JOIN, SO THERE’S SOMETHING NOSTALGIC ABOUT IT.

THE BEST GIFTS I’VE GIVEN RECENTLY

WERE THE STACKS OF T-SHIRTS I GAVE TO THE STUDENTS WHO WALKED MY SS25 MEN’S RUNWAY SHOW LAST SUMMER. THE PREVIOUS SEASON I HELD THE MEN’S AND WOMEN’S RUNWAY SHOWS AT MY HOUSE, WHICH FELT LIKE THE MOST RESPECTFUL THING TO DO WHILE OBSERVING WARS. WHAT I DIDN’T ANTICIPATE WAS HOW IT WOULD EXCLUDE ALL THE YOUNG PEOPLE WHO WANT TO BE OUTSIDE THE BARRIERS AT SHOWS. SO, FOR THE NEXT SUMMER, WE GOT 200 STUDENTS TO BE IN THE SHOW AND I HAD THESE T-SHIRTS PRINTED WITH A FLAG SHOWING HANDS CLASPED IN UNITY. IT WAS MORE A PLEASURE FOR ME THAN IT WAS FOR THEM.

AND THE BEST GIFT I’VE RECEIVED

WAS FROM THIS YOUNG ARTIST CALLED CONSTANTINE SEMIRAMIS, KNOWN AS ANTHROMORPH. I FOUND HER VIA INSTAGRAM FIVE OR EIGHT YEARS AGO. SHE WAS CREATING THESE MASKS BECAUSE SHE WAS UNCOMFORTABLE WITH HER BODY AND LIVING LIFE AS A BOY. THEY WERE FLESH-COLOURED LATEX MASKS THAT WERE KIND OF MOLECULAR-LOOKING AND HAD NO EYES OR MOUTH SO, WHEN SHE WORE THEM, SHE BECAME THIS FACELESS, DISTORTED FIGURE. THEY WERE SO ARRESTING THAT I REACHED OUT TO HER TO COLLABORATE. AFTER A WHILE, SHE WAS ABLE TO TRANSITION AND SHE SENT ME ONE OF THE MASKS BECAUSE SHE DIDN’T NEED IT ANY LONGER. I SEE SO MUCH BULLSHIT ART THAT IS ALL ABOUT IRONY AND MOCKING CONSUMERIST CULTURE AND THE PRICE TAG IS €40,000 OR SOMETHING. THIS MASK IS A GENUINE EXPRESSION OF CREATIVITY. I HAVE IT HANGING IN MY LIBRARY SO I SEE IT EVERY DAY.

AN INDULGENCE I WOULD NEVER FORGO

IS MY NAP. I HAVE ONE EVERY DAY. I PLAN FLIGHTS AROUND IT AND PEOPLE CAN’T PHONE ME. I MEAN, I NEVER PICK UP THE PHONE ANYWAY AS ALL MY NOTIFICATIONS ARE TURNED OFF. I THINK A DAILY NAP MUST BE THE MOST EXTRAVAGANT THING ANYBODY CAN DO. WHO GETS AWAY WITH THAT?

I’M NOT MUCH OF A COLLECTOR BUT

I DO HAVE EIGHT DINING CHAIRS BY THE ARCHITECT ELIEL SAARINEN. I HAD BEEN LOOKING FOR CHAIRS THAT WERE FUNCTIONAL AND GLAMOROUS BUT DISCREET AND I DIDN’T WANT THEM TO BE PROUVÉ BECAUSE EVERYBODY HAS PROUVÉ CHAIRS, AND I CAN ENJOY PROUVÉ CHAIRS AT EVERYBODY ELSE’S HOUSE! SO I FOUND THIS SET FROM MODERNITY STOCKHOLM. THEY ARE DARK WOOD WITH LEATHER UPHOLSTERY, JUGENDSTIL-STYLE, AND THERE’S A LITTLE HEADREST WITH INLAID WOOD THAT LOOKS LIKE SOMETHING FROM SNOW WHITE. THE ANGLE OF THE LITTLE PILLOW FOR THE BACK IS PERFECT. I HAVE FIVE OF THEM IN VENICE AND A FEW IN MY HOME IN CONCORDIA.

THE BEST WAY TO SPEND €20

IS ON CAKE. I WOULD GET A BEAUTIFUL TROPÉZIENNE FROM A PÂTISSERIE IN PARIS. IT’S KIND OF LIKE A HAMBURGER CAKE WITH CREAM IN THE MIDDLE – ALMOST LIKE A MACARON BUT NOT AS DELICATE. I LOVE THOSE. BUT WHENEVER I’M IN LONDON, I GO TO M&S AND GET ITS VICTORIA SPONGE OR CHOCOLATE CAKE. THAT’S REALLY GOOD.

I LAUGH AT

BRITISH HUMOUR. I LOVE BEVERLEY NICHOLS. HE WROTE A SERIES OF GARDENING BOOKS – OSTENSIBLY THEY’RE ABOUT GARDENING BUT THEY’RE ALSO KIND OF ABOUT LIVING IN A VILLAGE AND THE DYNAMICS BETWEEN ALL THE NEIGHBOURS ARGUING ABOUT THEIR GARDENS. THEY’RE FULL OF WHIMSY AND THERE’S OFTEN A SWEET MORAL SIDE TO THEM WHERE A CONFLICT IS SOMEHOW GRACEFULLY RESOLVED. THEY STILL MAKE ME LAUGH OUT LOUD.

THE THING I COULDN’T DO WITHOUT

IS COFFEE. I DRINK A LOT OF IT. OTHER THAN THAT, I TRY VERY CONSCIOUSLY NOT TO NEED ANYTHING. I LIKE TO LIVE IN A WAY WHERE I FEEL LIBERATED AND FREE. BUT I LOVE MAKING THE THINGS I DO HAVE SPECIAL AND ELEVATING THE MOST ESSENTIAL THINGS AROUND ME. IN THE PLACES I LIVE I’VE MADE THESE CUSTOM TOILETS THAT MATCH THE INTERIOR. IT MAKES ME CRAZY WHEN YOU SEE A WHITE PLASTIC LID ON A PORCELAIN TOILET: LIKE, COME ON, WE CAN DO BETTER THAN THAT!

MY FAVOURITE BUILDING

IT HAS BECOME MY SECOND HOME AFTER HAVING DONE OVER THIRTY RUNWAY SHOWS THERE, USUALLY IN THE OUTDOOR PARVIS IT SHARES WITH THE MUSÉE D'ART MODERNE. PLANNING SHOWS THAT ACKNOWLEDGE THE PROPORTIONS OF THE OUTDOOR SPACE HAS UNDOUBTEDLY INFLUENCED MY SILHOUETTES AND COLORS, AND THE ALFRED JANNIOT BAS-RELIEFS MY MODELS HAVE TO PASS IN FRONT OF GIVES ME A LOT TO TRY TO LIVE UP TO; I USUALLY TRY TO USE NATURAL ELEMENTS THAT CREATE LESS WASTE THAN BUILDING SETS — WATER, MUD, FIRE AND OF COURSE FOG, MY FAVORITE CHEAP TRICK. HAVING THIS SPACE AS MY PERSONAL THEATRE TO PRESENT MY LITTLE DOG AND PONY SHOWS HAS BEEN ONE OF THE GRANDEST JOYS OF MY LIFE. ALIEN SPACE QUEENS ROAMING THROUGH AN ART DECO VALHALLA IN RUIN...

IN MY FRIDGE YOU’LL ALWAYS FIND

GINGER BEER, BLUEBERRIES AND YOGHURT. I’M ON A YOGHURT BINGE RIGHT NOW. I RECENTLY STARTED SEEING A NUTRITIONIST BECAUSE I FELT LIKE I WASN’T MAKING THE PROGRESS I SHOULD FOR THE AMOUNT OF WORKING OUT THAT I DO. I’VE HAD TO CHANGE MY DIET TO SALADS AND CUT BACK ON CAKE, AND SHE FOUND A PROTEIN POWDER – LEVELS WHEY PROTEIN – THAT WAS APPROPRIATE FOR MY AGE SO I MIX THAT WITH COCONUT-BASED YOGHURT AND SQUEEZE SOME KIWIS AND BLUEBERRIES INTO IT. IT’S LIKE THE MOST DELICIOUS ICE-CREAM SMOOTHIE. I ALSO HAVE SOME BAD YOGHURTS IN THERE THAT HAVE A LOT OF CREAM AND LACTOSE. THEY’RE A GUILTY SECRET.

WHENEVER I NEED TO FEEL INSPIRED,

I BRUSH MY TEETH OR TAKE A SHOWER. ANY TIME YOU BRUSH YOUR TEETH OR SPLASH WATER ON YOUR FACE, IT CLEARS YOUR HEAD.

THE LAST MUSIC I DOWNLOADED

WAS “SOMEBODY TO LOVE” BY BASSTROLOGE, A MINIMAL TECHNO VERSION OF THE JEFFERSON AIRPLANE SONG. IT’S SO GOOD.

THE GROOMING STAPLES I’M NEVER WITHOUT

ARE AESOP’S CORIANDER WASH, ITS MOROCCAN NEROLI AFTERSHAVE CREAM AND ITS REVERENCE VETIVER HAND BALM THAT I USE ALL OVER MY BODY. I’VE USED THEM EVERY DAY FOR YEARS. I LOVE AESOP BECAUSE I LOVE THOSE SMELLS. I LOVE THAT THEY ARE BASIC BECAUSE IT MEANS I CAN ALWAYS GET THEM. I USE THE GERANIUM LEAF BODY SCRUB ON GLASSES AND ANYTHING IN THE HOUSE THAT NEEDS CLEANING. IT’S LIKE AJAX.

VENICE IS MAGICAL.

IT IS THE MOST EXQUISITE TREASURE CHEST EVER. I HAVE A HOUSE ON THE LIDO, BUT I LOVE KNOWING THAT THIS OPULENT GLITTERING JEWEL BOX IS AT ARM’S LENGTH. I LOVE THE LIDO BECAUSE IT’S NOT FABULOUS – THERE’S NO LOUD MUSIC OR NIGHTCLUBS AND THERE’S NOT A SCENE AT ALL. IT’S LIKE A LITTLE VILLAGE WITH SENIOR CITIZENS ON BIKES.

AN OBJECT I WISH I STILL HAD

IS A PAIR OF SCISSORS MY MOTHER GAVE ME WHEN I WAS YOUNG, BECAUSE SHE USED TO SEW AND HAD THESE LITTLE SCISSORS TO CUT THE THREADS. WHEN I STARTED MAKING CLOTHES, SHE GAVE ME THEM. AND OF COURSE I LOST THEM.

I DON’T BELIEVE IN LIFE AFTER DEATH.

I’M A LITTLE BIT TOO CYNICAL FOR THAT. BUT I DO BELIEVE THAT YOU LEAVE GOOD ENERGY BEHIND AND THAT ENERGY SOMEHOW JOINS OTHER GOOD ENERGY. I BELIEVE IN GOODNESS. OTHERWISE, WE WOULDN’T BE HERE. THE WORLD IS COMPOSED OF GLORY AND HORROR, BUT I FEEL LIKE GOODNESS HAS ALWAYS MANAGED TO OUTWEIGH EVIL IN THE WORLD.

MY FAVOURITE ROOM IN MY HOUSE

IS MY OFFICE. IT’S COMFORTABLE AND SPACIOUS AND I HAVE THE WINDOWS WIDE OPEN WITH ALL THESE VINES THAT SPILL ONTO IT. AND THERE’S A NEST RIGHT ABOVE MY DESK THAT THE BIRDS COME BACK TO EVERY SPRING. I DON’T KNOW WHY SHE’S TOTALLY COMFORTABLE NURSING HER BABIES RIGHT ON TOP OF MY DESK, ALL I’M DOING IS WRITING EMAILS…

MY FAVOURITE WEBSITE

IS THE LONDON LIST. THE WRITING IS CLEVER AND IT TAKES ME TO A WORLD OF ELEGANCE. I WISH I COULD FIND MORE THINGS LIKE IT.

MY WELLBEING GURU

IS MY NUTRITIONIST ANNA KING, WHO I CALL LADY AVOCADO. I WORK WITH HER OVER FACETIME, SHE IS HELPING ME ADJUST MY GUT LEVELS — I SUSPECTED THAT AS I AGED, MY BODY WASN'T ABSORBING NUTRIENTS AS IT HAD BEFORE AND ACCORDING TO LADY AVOCADO'S ANALYSIS, SHE CONFIRMED. THE SUPPLEMENTS SHE HAS SUGGESTED ARE DOING WONDERS. OTHER THAN THAT, I’M NOT MUCH OF A GROOMER. I DYE MY HAIR MYSELF, THOUGH I HAVE IT CHEMICALLY STRAIGHTENED EVERY THREE OR FOUR MONTHS AT YADA NATHALÊ IN PARIS. IT’S AN INEXPENSIVE BUT TOXIC PROCESS. I KEEP WAITING FOR THEM TO REFUSE ME BECAUSE MY HAIR IS SO THIN AND WISPY. EVERY TIME I GO, I’M NERVOUS THAT THEY’RE GOING TO TURN AROUND AND SAY, “SORRY, WE CAN’T IN ALL CONSCIENCE DO THIS TO YOU.” BUT THEY KEEP INDULGING ME.

IN ANOTHER LIFE, I WOULD HAVE BEEN

A GARDENER. I LOVE THE IDEA OF CULTIVATING PLANTS AND BEING MORE CONNECTED WITH NATURE. AT THIS POINT, I PROBABLY DON’T HAVE THE PATIENCE TO BECAUSE I’M VERY USED TO HAVING DEADLINES. MY LIFE IS VERY STRUCTURED WITH APPOINTMENTS AND I LOVE HAVING THAT SENSE OF PURPOSE. YOU GET USED TO BEING BLACK AND WHITE AND MAKING QUICK DECISIONS. THAT’S THE OPPOSITE OF GARDENING. FOR GARDENING, YOU HAVE TO GIVE UP CONTROL. AND I FEEL I MIGHT BE TOO ADDICTED TO THIS PACE NOW

THE BEST BIT OF ADVICE I EVER RECEIVED

WAS PROBABLY FROM MY FATHER, WHO SAID, “DON’T EXPECT LIFE TO BE FAIR.” IT WAS INFURIATING AT THE TIME, BUT IT IS TRUE. YOU HAVE TO BE PREPARED FOR DISAPPOINTMENTS.


I’VE RECENTLY DISCOVERED/REDISCOVERED…

THERE IS A LITTLE HIDDEN GROTTO NEXT TO THE PALAIS DE LA DECOUVERTE IN PARIS CALLED JARDIN DE LA NOUVELLE FRANCE, THAT I DUCK INTO EVERY TIME I GO TO RUNWAY FITTINGS AT PALAIS DE TOKYO, ON MY WAY FROM MY HOUSE ON PLACE DU PALAIS BOURBON… THE HOLLYWOOD BOULEVARD SLEAZEBAG IN ME MARVELS AT MY PARIS LIFE OF DRIFTING FROM PALAIS TO PALAIS VIA SECRET GARDENS…

A MEMORABLE/CAREER-DEFINING MOMENT WAS…

I AM HAVING A RETROSPECTIVE AT THE PRE-EMINENT FASHION MUSEUM, PALAIS GALLIERA IN PARIS THIS MONTH. I CAN ONLY IMAGINE THE HEATED ADMINISTRATIVE DEBATES AND RESIGNATIONS THAT LEAD TO THAT DECISION.

THE LAST ITEM OF CLOTHING I ADDED TO MY WARDROBE IS…

THE LAST THING I GOT WAS A PAIR OF BOOTS FROM MY RECENT MEN’S RUNWAY COLLECTION — THEY ARE A CRUMPLED BLOB OF LEATHER ON A PERSPEX HEEL THAT WE CALL TACO BOOTS BECAUSE OF THE SIMPLE FOLDED CONSTRUCTION OF LEATHER WRAPPED AROUND THE FOOT. WE ARE ALSO DOING SOME WRAPPED SNEAKERS I CALL BURRITO SNEAKS — THESE ARE MY KITSCHY BUT EARNEST HOMAGE TO MEXICAN CULTURE THAT HAS CONTRIBUTED SO MUCH TO AMERICAN CULTURE.

HE ONE ARTIST WHOSE WORK I WOULD COLLECT IF I COULD IS…

I ELIMINATE MORE THAN I COLLECT AND THE UNATTAINABLE ASPECT OF A PIECE LIKE MICHAEL HEIZER’S ‘DOUBLE NEGATIVE’ ATTRACTS ME VERY MUCH. BUT I HAVE ALWAYS YEARNED TO POSSES A JOSEPH BEUYS PIECE CALLED ‘HORNER’, MADE OF RHINOCEROS HORNS ATTACHED TO BRONZE STAFFS WITH PLASTIC MEDICAL TUBING. I LIKE TO JUST ALLOW MYSELF TO BELIEVE IN HIS BLEAK BRAND OF MYSTICISM AND SOCIAL CONSCIOUSNESS.