”THE TOWER OF LIGHT IS HOPE AND GOODNESS AND IT HAS ALWAYS PREVAILED - OTHERWISE WE WOULDN’T BE HERE.  I WOULD HAVE SAID ”FAITH IN GOODNESS” BUT WE CAN’T DEPEND ON IT - WE HAVE TO SEEK IT OUT AND CULTIVATE IT.” -RICK OWENS

FW26 TOWER MEN’S
THURSDAY 22 JANUARY 2026
PALAIS DE TOKYO, 13 AVENUE DU PRÉSIDENT WILSON, 75116 PARIS

THIS SEASON’S COLLECTION IS TITLED ‘TOWER’, AS IN “TEMPLE OF LOVE, TOWER OF LIGHT” — A PRAYER FOR LOVE AND HOPE.

BUT TOWERS CAN ALSO BE ABOUT ENFORCEMENT. INITIALLY, EPAULETS WERE DELIBERATELY STRIPPED FROM BIKERS AND OUTERSHIRTS TO AVOID SENSITIVE MILITARY CONNOTATIONS BUT THE WORLD AROUND US IS IMPOSSIBLE TO IGNORE SO THE ONLY WAY TO GO IS PARODY.

POLICE BOOTS ARE BLOATED AND GROTESQUELY EXAGGERATED AND COME IN BUTCH BLACK, DOMINATING DUST OR MINCY MAUVE. CLOSE-FITTING COATS WHICH WRAP AND TIE LIKE LAB GARMENTS ARE EITHER GLOSSY BLACK BULL LEATHER OR KEVLAR, A FIBER 5 TIMES STRONGER THAN STEEL, TRADITIONALLY USED IN PROTECTIVE CLOTHING, SUCH AS BODY ARMOR. OUR KEVLAR CANVAS IS WOVEN IN COMO, ITALY, BY A THIRD-GENERATION, FAMILY-OWNED MILL THAT HAS BEEN SPECIALIZED IN PERFORMANCE WEAR SINCE ITS FOUNDING IN 1952.

TRANSFORMABLE OUTERWEAR CUT IN HEAVY BUT MALLEABLE WAXY 1,4MM COWHIDES TANNED IN HIMEJI CITY, HYOGO PREFECTURE, HAVE BEEN PRODUCED INTO 2 PIECE GARMENTS BY AN ATELIER IN ATSUGI, KANAGAWA PREFECTURE. CROPPED JACKETS CAN BE REMOVED TO REVEAL A LONGER VEST LAYER BENEATH.

TOUGH, INDUSTRIALLY INSULATING CABANS ARE CUT IN THICK 8MM FELT HANDCRAFTED IN A SMALL ATELIER IN BIKANER, RAJASTHAN, NORTHERN INDIA. RAW, UNTREATED HIMALAYAN WOOL IS CARDED INTO FLOCKS, DIVIDED BY THEIR NATURAL COLORS AND MIXED TOGETHER BY THE ARTISAN TO CREATE THE VEIN PATTERN VISIBLE IN THE FINISHED FELT.

POIRET SACK COATS ARE CUT IN FLUFFY, BRUSHED AND WASHED ALPACA OR RWS CERTIFIED BOILED WOOL, WOVEN IN TUSCANY, ITALY. RWS ENSURES A HIGH STANDARD IN ANIMAL WELFARE, ENVIRONMENTAL SUSTAINABILITY AND SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY. EACH BALE OF WOOL IS TRACEABLE BACK TO ITS SOURCE.

MÉLANGE WOOLS ARE WOVEN BY A FIFTH-GENERATION MILL SITUATED IN THE BISHŪ REGION OF JAPAN, RENOWNED FOR ITS LONG TRADITION OF TAILORED WOOL, AS WELL AS BY OUR BELOVED BONOTTO, A 4TH GENERATION TEXTILE MILL FOUNDED IN 1912, SITUATED JUST BELOW THE PREALPS IN VENETO, ITALY.

16OZ BLACK DENIM AND HEAVY WEIGHT, INDUSTRIAL INDIGO CANVAS ARE SOURCED IN JAPAN AND WASHED IN OUR ITALIAN WASH HOUSE, BASED IN THE VENETO AREA OF ITALY, THAT PRODUCES IN SMALLER TREATMENT BATHS TO REDUCE WATER WASTE AND UTILIZE A WATER PURIFYING PROCESS THAT ENABLES THEM TO RECYCLE A PORTION OF THE WATER USED. ALL OF OUR DENIM WASHES ARE ZDHC CERTIFIED.

SHEARLINGS AND GOAT HIDES ARE WATER JET CUT INTO NETTING AND LINKED TOGETHER TO CREATE SHAGGY, COLOR PATCHED, FLOWER POWER, LIGHT AND BOUNCY CROPPED FLIGHT JACKETS IN COLLABORATION WITH LONDON DESIGNER @STRAYTUKAY. ALL OUR HIDES ARE FOOD BYPRODUCTS.

HAND-CROCHETED KNITS IN SILK/CASHMERE ARE A COLLAB WITH @SARUTANYA, WHO HAS BEEN MODELLING FOR OUR COLLECTION FITTINGS AND AS PART OF OUR E-COMMERCE FAMILY FOR THE PAST 10 YEARS. SILK/CASHMERE YARNS ARE ALSO USED FOR HAND-TUFTED JACKETS IN COLLABORATION WITH PARIS-BASED TEXTILE ARTIST @JTROFIMOVA WHO INTERNED WITH US AT OUR FACTORY IN CONCORDIA, ITALY BEFORE MOVING ON TO DEVELOP HER OWN PRACTICE.

HAND-TIED MACRAME MASKS ARE A COLLAB WITH LONDON BASED DESIGNER @LUCAS___MORETTI. EACH MASK REQUIRES 3000M OF WAXED CORD AND OVER 30 MEDITATIVE HOURS TO COMPLETE.

HAIR AND MAKEUP IS A COLLAB WITH @FIGA.LINK, A BERLIN-BASED DIGITAL CREATOR WHOSE WORK IS THE REACTIVE PROTEST TO THE CONDITIONS AROUND US I AM ALWAYS LOOKING FOR.

WE ARE THE GOON SQUAD AND WE’RE COMING TO TOWN BEEP BEEP.

CASTING: ANGUS MUNRO (AMC CASTING)
STYLING: TYRONE DYLAN SUSMAN
HAIR: DUFFY (STREETERS)
MAKEUP: DANIEL SALLSTROM (MA WORLD GROUP)
PRODUCTION: LA MODE EN IMAGES
MUSIC: ‘ULTRATRONICS 11’ BY RYOJI IKEDA MIXED BY JEFF JUDD

FW26 TOWER WOMEN’S
THURSDAY 5 MARCH 2026
PALAIS DE TOKYO, 13 AVENUE DU PRÉSIDENT WILSON, 75116 PARIS

THIS SEASON’S COLLECTION IS TITLED ‘TOWER’, AS IN “TEMPLE OF LOVE, TOWER OF LIGHT” – A PRAYER FOR LOVE AND HOPE.

AND STRENGTH AND PROTECTION.

TOWER SHEATHS OPENING THE SHOW ARE CUT IN GLOSSY BULL LEATHER, BOILED WOOL, OR KEVLAR – A FIBER 5 TIMES STRONGER THAN STEEL, TRADITIONALLY USED IN PROTECTIVE CLOTHING SUCH AS BODY ARMOR. OUR KEVLAR CANVAS IS WOVEN IN COMO, ITALY, BY A THIRD-GENERATION, FAMILY-OWNED MILL THAT HAS BEEN SPECIALIZED IN PERFORMANCE WEAR SINCE ITS FOUNDING IN 1952.

TRANSFORMABLE OUTERWEAR IS COMPOSED OF CROPPED JACKETS THAT CAN BE WORN ON THEIR OWN, OR LAYERED OVER A LONGER, COORDINATING VEST TO MAKE YOU A TOWER.

THESE PIECES COME IN HEAVY BUT MALLEABLE WAXY COWHIDE, TANNED IN SANTA CROCE SULL’ARNO, TUSCANY, ITALY, OR FLUFFY, BRUSHED AND WASHED ALPACA, OR RWS CERTIFIED BOILED WOOL – WOVEN IN TUSCANY AS WELL. RWS ENSURES A HIGH STANDARD IN ANIMAL WELFARE, ENVIRONMENTAL SUSTAINABILITY, AND SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY. EACH BALE OF WOOL IS TRACEABLE BACK TO ITS SOURCE.

MELANGE WOOLS ARE WOVEN BY A FIFTH-GENERATION MILL SITUATED IN THE BISHŪ REGION OF JAPAN, RENOWNED FOR ITS LONG TRADITION OF TAILORED WOOL, AS WELL AS BY BONOTTO, A 4TH GENERATION TEXTILE MILL FOUNDED IN 1912, SITUATED JUST BELOW THE PREALPS IN VENETO, ITALY.

TOWER FLIGHT JACKETS AND TOWER MINI MANTLES ARE EXECUTED IN THICK 8MM FELT, HANDCRAFTED IN A SMALL ATELIER IN BIKANER, RAJASTHAN, NORTHERN INDIA. RAW, UNTREATED HIMALAYAN WOOL IS CARDED INTO FLOCKS, DIVIDED BY THEIR NATURAL COLORS AND MIXED TOGETHER BY THE ARTISAN TO CREATE THE VEIN PATTERN VISIBLE IN THE FINISHED FELT.

INDUSTRIAL INDIGO CANVAS IS SOURCED IN JAPAN AND WASHED IN OUR ITALIAN WASH HOUSE BASED IN THE VENETO AREA OF ITALY, WHICH PRODUCES IN SMALLER TREATMENT BATHS TO REDUCE WATER WASTE AND UTILIZE A WATER PURIFYING PROCESS THAT ENABLES THEM TO RECYCLE A PORTION OF THE WATER USED. ALL OF OUR DENIM WASHES ARE ZDHC CERTIFIED.

HAND-CROCHETED KNITS IN SILK/CASHMERE ARE A COLLAB WITH @SARUTANYA, WHO HAS BEEN MODELING FOR OUR COLLECTION FITTINGS AND AS PART OF OUR E-COMMERCE FAMILY FOR THE PAST 10 YEARS.

SILK/CASHMERE YARNS ARE ALSO USED FOR HAND-TUFTED JACKETS IN COLLABORATION WITH PARIS-BASED TEXTILE ARTIST JULIA TROFIMOVA, WHO INTERNED WITH US AT OUR FACTORY IN CONCORDIA, ITALY, BEFORE MOVING ON TO DEVELOP HER OWN PRACTICE.

HAND-TIED MACRAME TOWER GOWNS ARE A COLLAB WITH LONDON-BASED DESIGNER @LUCAS____MORETTI. EACH GOWN REQUIRES 4000M OF WAXED CORD AND OVER 50 MEDITATIVE HOURS TO COMPLETE.

COTTON CANDY-COLORED GOAT HIDES ARE WATER-JET CUT INTO NETTING AND LINKED TOGETHER TO CREATE MY BRUTALIST TOWER INTERPRETATION OF MARLENE DIETRICH’S LEGENDARY SWANSDOWN COAT WORN DURING HER FINAL CABARET YEARS. I’VE OFTEN REFERRED TO MY ADMIRATION FOR MARLENE DIETRICH AND THE DIGNIFIED SEQUENCE OF HER LIFE’S STAGES:
PHASE ONE AS A STEELY GLITTERING SEXUAL PROVOCATEUR
PHASE TWO AS AN EXAMPLE OF DUTY AND SERVICE DURING WARTIME
PHASE THREE AS A TIGHTLY-CONTROLLED CABARET ACT, SPARINGLY STAGED WITH ONLY A SHEER DRESS, A HUGE WHITE CLOUD OF A COAT AND A PINK SPOTLIGHT.
SHE ALWAYS STRUCK ME AS HAVING A VERY ATTRACTIVE MIX OF MORALITY AND ARTIFICE WITH A STRONG SENSE OF RESPONSIBILITY AND GRIT

HAIR AND MAKEUP IS A COLLAB WITH @FIGA.LINK, A BERLIN-BASED DIGITAL CREATOR WHOSE WORK IS THE REACTIVE PROTEST TO THE CONDITIONS AROUND US THAT I AM ALWAYS LOOKING FOR.

ALL OUR HIDES ARE FOOD BYPRODUCTS.

CASTING: ANGUS MUNRO (AMC CASTING)
STYLING: TYRONE DYLAN SUSMAN
HAIR: DUFFY (STREETERS)
MAKEUP: DANIEL SALLSTROM (MA WORLD GROUP)
NAILS: CHRISTINA CONRAD
PROSTHETICS: SANDRINE DENIS
PRODUCTION: LA MODE EN IMAGES
MUSIC: ‘LUXUS 1-3’ BY RYOJI IKEDA MIXED BY JEFF JUDD

"I WAS DELIGHTED WITH THE RESULTS OF THE COLLABORATION WITH @FIGA.LINK - I HADN’T BEEN THIS EXCITED ABOUT SOMEONE’S WORK FOR A LONG TIME - A CLEAR, CONFIDENT, DEFIANT AND MODERN VOICE LIKE THIS -  I HOPE HE GOT AS MUCH OUT OF IT AS I DID.” -RICK OWENS

BERNARDO MARTINS @FIGA.LINK IS A BRAZILIAN-BORN, BERLIN-BASED VISUAL CREATOR WHOSE WORK IS ROOTED IN PHOTOGRAPHY, DESIGN, AND GENERATIVE TECHNOLOGIES TO EXPLORE NOTIONS OF BEAUTY, DIGITAL CULTURE, AND THE EVOLVING TERRAIN OF IMAGE-MAKING IN CONTEMPORARY TIMES.

THE SELECTION FOR TOWER CAME MAINLY FROM THE DEVELOPMENT OF ‘SAVE FACE’, MARTINS’ MOST PERSONAL PROJECT, CENTERED ON COMPUTER-GENERATED PORTRAITS. ALTHOUGH THESE CHARACTERS APPEAR REAL, THEY DO NOT EXIST BEYOND THE DIGITAL IMAGE ITSELF. EVEN KNOWING THIS, ONE STILL PROJECTS ASSUMPTIONS, IDEAS OF BEAUTY OR PREJUDICE ONTO THEM.

”MANY PEOPLE DESCRIBED THE WORKS AS MUGSHOTS, WHILE I HAVE ALWAYS SEEN THEM SIMPLY AS PORTRAITS. I FELT THIS TENSION CONNECTED NATURALLY WITH TOWER, BECAUSE IT REFLECTS THE ZEITGEIST, WHERE REALITY CAN FEEL LIKE A DREAM (OR NIGHTMARE), AND THE DIGITAL SPACE FEELS MORE REAL BY THE DAY.” -BERNARDO MARTINS @FIGA.LINK

“I’VE ALWAYS FOUND RICK'S PERSPECTIVE REFRESHING, BUT ABOVE ALL NECESSARY. BEING INDEPENDENT CAN FEEL FREEING, BUT FREEDOM CAN ALSO BE FRIGHTENING. BECAUSE OF THAT, I REALLY ADMIRE THE COURAGE, ESPECIALLY AT A TIME WHEN IT FEELS SAFER TO JUST START LOOKING FOR A BUNKER.” BERNARDO MARTINS @FIGA.LINK

OUR HEAVYWEIGHT CALF LEATHER COMES FROM THE TANNING DISTRICT OF SANTA CROCE SULL'ARNO, TUSCANY, WHERE A LONG TRADITION OF CRAFTSMANSHIP CONTINUES TO EVOLVE THROUGH MATERIAL EXPERIMENTATION AND ADVANCED MANUFACTURING TECHNOLOGIES.

THE TANNERY, LWG CERTIFIED WITH A GOLD RATING, WORKS EXCLUSIVELY WITH HIDES SOURCED AS A BY-PRODUCT OF THE FOOD INDUSTRY AND RELIES ON A FULLY INTEGRATED PRODUCTION SYSTEM DESIGNED TO OPTIMIZE RESOURCES AND MINIMIZE WASTE. LEATHER OFFCUTS ARE RECOVERED THROUGH SPECIALIZED LOCAL INDUSTRIES, WHILE THE ENTIRE PRODUCTION PROCESS IS MONITORED THROUGH INDUSTRY 4.0 TECHNOLOGIES TO ENSURE TRACEABILITY AND CONSISTENT QUALITY STANDARDS.

THE LEATHER IS TANNED USING A COMBINATION OF VEGETABLE AND CHROME TANNINS, THEN DYED BLACK AND INDIVIDUALLY TREATED BY HAND TO ACHIEVE ITS IRREGULAR WASHED-OUT APPEARANCE. THE TANNERY HOLDS AN LWG GOLD CERTIFICATION, REFLECTING ITS COMMITMENT TO RESPONSIBLE ENVIRONMENTAL PRACTICES.

”I THINK OF LEATHER BARS IN THE PAST, TAKING ON THE TROPES OF DOMINATION , ABUSE AND OPPRESSION AND FETISHISING AND ADOPTING THEM TO STEAL THEIR POWER. REVENGE.” -RICK OWENS