AUGUST 30 2021

SURFACE — RICK OWENS FOLLOWS HIS INSTINCTS — 30 AUGUST 2021 — BY RYAN WADDOUPS

ONE OF MY EARLIEST DESIGN MEMORIES IS OF A BEAUTIFUL TAN LEATHER BINOCULAR CASE ON MY FATHER’S BOOKSHELF. THE WAY THE SMOOTH BLACK BINOCULARS FIT INTO THE PERFECTLY FITTING VELVET-LINED INTERIOR REALLY STUCK WITH ME.

AND NOT EXACTLY RELATED, I REMEMBER ASKING MY MOTHER TO MAKE AN OVERSIZED BLAZER FOR ME OUT OF A PAINTING TARP WHEN I WAS IN COLLEGE. I APPLIQUED BLACK VINYL SPIKES ON THE SLEEVES AND WORE IT SHIRTLESS WITH HUGE WOODEN BEADED NECKLACES PAINTED BLACK. I HAD A NOSE RING WITH BLACK ROSARY BEADS CONNECTING IT TO AN EARRING. IT WAS KIND OF A BARBARIC NEW ROMANTIC GET-UP THAT I WORE CONSTANTLY, MUCH LIKE I WILL WEAR A LOOK CONSTANTLY NOW.

THE RAMONES WERE ONE OF MY FIRST MUSICAL HEROES. THEY WERE SCRAPPY, CRUDE, AND UNAPOLOGETICALLY RAW. THEY HAD A MINIMALIST CONSISTENCY THAT ALIGNED THEM IN MY HEAD TO BRANCUSI OR DONALD JUDD. IF BLACK AND WHITE CONVERSE CHUCK TAYLORS WERE THEIR CHOICE OF FOOTWEAR, THAT WAS GOOD ENOUGH FOR ME.

I WANTED TO ALTER [THE CONVERSE X DRKSHDW TURBOWPN] MORE PROFOUNDLY THAN JUST DECORATING THEIR SURFACE. I WANTED TO MODIFY THEM ARCHITECTURALLY SO THEY BECAME BOMBASTIC AND OTHERWORLDLY. WHEN I EXTEND THINGS BEYOND THEIR ORIGINAL SPACE, I AM SUGGESTING AN OPENNESS TO POSSIBILITIES.

BEING ABLE TO SPEAK ABOUT EMPATHY AND TOLERANCE IS ABSOLUTELY ONE OF MY FAVORITE PARTS OF DOING THESE COLLABS. I AM TELLING KIDS THAT IF A FREAK LIKE ME CAN FIND AN AUDIENCE AND INDEPENDENTLY CREATE WITH AUTHENTIC JOY, THEN SO CAN THEY. WE DON’T HAVE TO FOLLOW THE NARROW STRICT RULES OF CONVENTIONAL BEAUTY, WE CAN FOLLOW ALTERNATIVE AND INVENTIVE PATHS THAT VALUE KINDNESS AND CONSIDERATION AND OPENNESS TO NEW IDEAS MORE.

I AM LOVING THE BODY MANIPULATIONS OF ANTHROMORPH, SALVIA, AND FECAL MATTER, ALL OF WHOM I HAVE COLLABORATED WITH. THEIR REJECTION OF CONVENTIONAL BEAUTY RULES HAS FELT LIKE THE BREATH OF FRESH AIR I HAVE BEEN WAITING FOR. I SEE SUCH WIT IN THEIR DISREGARD OF COMFORTABLE CONVENTIONAL BEAUTY.

I ADMIT THAT IN MY OWN HOUSE I AM USED TO GETTING WHAT I WANT IMMEDIATELY WITH NO QUESTIONS ASKED. BUT I DON’T NEED THAT CONTROL WHEN I AM WORKING WITH SOMEONE ELSE. I AM HAPPY TO SEE HOW FAR THEY ARE WILLING TO GO AND ACCEPT THAT.

I ALWAYS FOCUS ON WHAT I WANT TO SEE—WHAT WOULD DELIGHT OR IMPRESS ME. THIS ISN’T AS EASY AS IT SOUNDS WHEN YOU ALSO WANT TO BE A RESPONSIBLE MEMBER OF A COMMUNITY. THINKING SELFISHLY ABOUT YOUR OWN DELIGHT TAKES A BIT OF AN EFFORT SOMETIMES LOL. I WANT TO SEE SOMETHING BOLD, SLIGHTLY RECKLESS, AND INTELLECTUALLY CULTIVATED. I’M NOT SAYING I EVER GET THERE BUT SOMETIMES I COME CLOSE.

MY COLLECTIONS ARE MY VERY PREDICTABLE REACTION TO MY IMAGINATION BEING OPPRESSED AND MOCKED IN MY YOUTH. MY COLLECTIONS ARE MY REVENGE. I HAVE FETISHIZED CRAFT AND TECHNIQUE IN THE PAST BUT AS TIME GOES ON, I JUST WANT TO REDUCE DOWN TO AN EVEN MORE PURE GESTURE—SIMPLE, MERCILESS AND PRIMAL. I NEVER PURSUE ANYTHING I DON’T EXPECT TO WORK.

I TRY NOT TO OVERTHINK THINGS AND KEEP THE BIGGER PICTURE IN MIND. I TRY TO REMEMBER EVERYTHING I HAVE DONE AND THEN LEAP.