NOVEMBER 2023

W CHINA — THE MAKING OF A MAISON — OCTOBER 2023 — BY ANJA ARONOWSKY CRONBERG

RICK OWENS VISITED JAPAN TO CELEBRATE THE RELEASE OF MORE RICK OWENS PHOTOGRAPHED BY DANIELLE LEVITT, A VISUAL BOOK SHOWCASING IMAGES OF RICK OWENS' COLLECTIONS OVER THE PAST 10 YEARS. HE SPOKE CANDIDLY ABOUT HIS ENCOUNTERS WITH PHOTOGRAPHER DANIELLE LEVITT, HIS THOUGHTS ON EACH SEASON'S COLLECTION, AND HIS RELATIONSHIP WITH HIS WIFE, MICHÈLE LAMY.

ON THE DAY OF THE INTERVIEW, I HEADED TO THE RICK OWENS TOKYO STORE IN MINAMI AOYAMA AND FOUND HIS STAFF, ALL DRESSED IN BLACK, GATHERED AT THE FRONT OF THE STORE. AMONG THEM WAS HIS WIFE, MICHELE LAMY, WHO SAID, "I WANT A BLACK CRAYON EYELINER." WHEN I ENTERED THE STORE AND WENT TO THE SOFA AREA IN THE BACK, I WAS GREETED BY RICK OWENS, WHO HAD A STRONG PRESENCE. HE WAS DRESSED IN HIS CLASSIC STYLE, SPORTING A BLACK SHIRT, SHORTS, A CAP, AND BOOTS.

WHEN I SHOWED HIM MY NAILS DECORATED WITH "RICK OWENS" FOR THE DAY, HE SMILED AND SAID, "I LOVE IT! THAT’S SO COOL!" HE EVEN TOOK A PHOTO OF MY NAILS AND POSTED IT ON THE BRAND'S OFFICIAL INSTAGRAM. HE ALSO SHOWED US SOME PHOTOS HE HAD TAKEN ON HIS TRIP OF THE SUNSET AND A MYSTERIOUS CAVE COVERED IN SPIDERWEBS. THIS GAVE US A GLIMPSE INTO HIS GENEROUS AND KIND PERSONALITY. WHEN ASKED ABOUT SHOOTING WITH DANIELLE LEVITT AND HIS LATEST COLLECTION, HE SHARED HIS THOUGHTS WITHOUT HESITATION.

THE VISUALS PUBLISHED IN THIS BOOK, MORE RICK OWENS PHOTOGRAPHED BY DANIELLE LEVITT, ARE IMPRESSIVE IN THEIR UNIFIED WHITE BACKGROUND. IS THERE A REASON FOR THIS?

I FIRST MET DANIELLE WHILE FILMING A DOCUMENTARY. AT THE TIME, SHE WAS PHOTOGRAPHING COMMUNITIES OF MARGINALIZED PEOPLE CONNECTED THROUGH SHARED VALUES. AMONG THEM WERE A GROUP OF HIGH SCHOOL STUDENTS WHO CALLED THEMSELVES THE WOLF PACK, A GROUP OF OLDER GAY MEN, CHEERLEADERS, AND A SOCCER TEAM. THROUGH HER WORK, YOU COULD TELL SHE HAD A VERY DEEP LOVE FOR OTHERS, AND I REMEMBER BEING FASCINATED BY HER KINDNESS. I LIKE THE ENERGY SHE HAS AND HER WORK. YOU CAN SAY THAT BEING AROUND DANIELLE’S ENERGY IS AN INSPIRATION IN ITSELF. I HAVE A HARD TIME SURRENDERING TO MY EMOTIONS, AND I DON'T HAVE THE SPONTANEITY THAT DANIELLE DOES. MY DRIVING FORCE IS TO MEET PEOPLE WHO ARE HONEST, SINCERE, AND SPONTANEOUS, WHICH I DON'T HAVE MYSELF.

I STARTED WORKING WITH DANIELLE 10 YEARS AGO, AND ABOUT 5 AGO, SHE SUGGESTED SOMETHING TO ME, “WHY DON'T YOU CHANGE THE LIGHTING? HOW ABOUT SHOOTING OUTSIDE?'' MY ANSWER, HOWEVER, WAS NO BECAUSE I BELIEVED THAT A LARGE COLLECTION THAT TOOK SO MUCH TIME AND MONEY TO PUT TOGETHER HAD TO BE CONSISTENT. I PERSONALLY CHOOSE THE MODELS, STYLE THEM, AND THEN DO ANOTHER FINAL CHECK.

THIS PROCESS MUST ALWAYS BE FLAWLESS. IN ONE CORNER OF THE STUDIO, WE HAVE THE HAIR AND MAKEUP TEAM’S SETUP; IN THE BACKGROUND, WE HAVE MUSIC BY BRUTALISM 3000, AND THE SPACE IS FILLED WITH THE SMELL OF HAIRSPRAY AND CIGARETTES. WE BELIEVE THERE IS VALUE IN PHOTOGRAPHING THE COLLECTION IN THIS SPECIAL, ENERGY-FILLED SPACE. THE PHOTOS IN THIS BOOK WERE TAKEN BACKSTAGE JUST BEFORE THE SHOW, AND YOU CAN SEE EACH IMAGE COME TO LIFE. DANIELLE AGREED TO THIS PROCESS. SHE TAUGHT ME THE IMPORTANCE OF HAVING LONG-LASTING RELATIONSHIPS WITH PEOPLE. I HAVE NEVER BEEN GOOD AT OPENING UP TO PEOPLE AND HAVE AVOIDED GETTING INVOLVED WITH MANY PEOPLE, BUT STRANGELY ENOUGH, I FEEL A SPECIAL SENSE OF SECURITY WITH DANIELLE.

IN THE PREFACE OF THE BOOK YOU WROTE, "DANIELLE HAD A GENTLENESS AND WARMTH THAT WAS THE OPPOSITE OF THE DARKNESS THAT PEOPLE EXPECTED FROM ME." DID YOU MEAN THAT AT THAT TIME, THE RICK OWENS BRAND NEEDED ELEMENTS LIKE HER PERSONALITY AND WORK?

NO, THAT'S NOT THE CASE. NOWADAYS, MANY DESIGNERS THINK ABOUT THE ARCHIVE BEFORE THE COLLECTION. WHEN I STARTED MY BRAND, I DIDN'T KNOW IF THE BRAND WOULD SURVIVE, AND ALL I COULD THINK ABOUT WAS HOLDING ON UNTIL THE NEXT SEASON, SO I SOLD SAMPLE LOOKS WITHOUT THINKING ABOUT THE ARCHIVE. HOWEVER, RECENTLY, THAT CONCEPT HAS CHANGED DRAMATICALLY. I AM LESS CONCERNED ABOUT THE BRAND'S SURVIVAL AND CAN NOW THINK ABOUT THE ARCHIVE EVEN BEFORE THE COLLECTION. I HAVE BEEN DOCUMENTING MY COLLECTIONS WITH PHOTOGRAPHS, BUT FOR THE FIRST TIME, I HAVE BEGUN BUILDING A SOLID ARCHIVE COLLECTION.

I HAD NEVER CONSIDERED THE BRAND'S FUTURE, SO BUILDING THIS ARCHIVE COLLECTION IS A BIG STEP FORWARD. IT IS BECAUSE WE HAVE GAINED CONFIDENCE IN THE FUTURE OF THE BRAND.

THE RECENT SPRING/SUMMER 2024 COLLECTION IN PARIS WAS COLORFUL AND FILLED WITH POSITIVE ENERGY. IT ALSO SEEMED TO CELEBRATE FEMININE STRENGTH.

IN TERMS OF INSPIRATION FOR THIS COLLECTION, I WAS INFLUENCED BY DIANA ROSS. WHEN WE THINK OF A FASHION SHOW, WE START WITH THE MUSIC AND THE SHOES. THESE ARE THE TWO MOST IMPORTANT ELEMENTS OF THE SHOW. SHOES TAKE TIME TO CREATE, SO WE HAVE TO THINK ABOUT THEM FROM THE BEGINNING, BUT WE THINK ABOUT THE MUSIC PARALLEL TO THE COLLECTION. WHEN IT COMES TO MUSIC, I WORK WITH FRIENDS TO CREATE REMIXES OF 3 TO 15 MINUTES. WE COMPLETELY DECONSTRUCT AND REMIX AN EXISTING SONG BY REPEATING OR EXPANDING PARTS TO BEST SUIT OUR COLLECTION.

THE MUSIC BY DIANA ROSS HAS BEEN AN INTEGRAL PART OF MY LIFE SINCE I FIRST BECAME INTERESTED IN MUSIC IN THE 70S. I FIRST HEARD "MAHOGANY" AS THE THEME SONG TO THE MOVIE "MAHOGANY TALES" IN MIDDLE SCHOOL. I STILL LISTEN TO "LOVE HANGOVER" WHEN I GO FOR WALKS AND "MUSCLES" AT THE GYM.

WHILE I WAS THINKING ABOUT THIS COLLECTION, A FRIEND PLAYED ME THE NEW DIANA ROSS ALBUM, AND MY WIFE MICHELE ASKED THROUGH DIANA'S SON IF WE COULD USE IT IN THE SHOW, AND TO MY DELIGHT, SHE SENT ME A TRACK FROM THE ALBUM. INITIALLY, THE SONG WAS A CHEERFUL POP DISCO TUNE, BUT WE DECIDED TO ONLY KEEP HER VOCALS AND CHANGE THE TUNE. AT NEARLY 80 YEARS OLD, HER VOICE IS PRECIOUS, RAW, AND POWERFUL. THE REMIXED VERSION GAVE A COMPLETELY DIFFERENT IMPRESSION FROM THE ORIGINAL TUNE. I DON'T KNOW IF DIANA HERSELF SAW MY SHOW, BUT IF I HAVE A CHANCE TO MEET HER, I WOULD LIKE TO THANK HER.

YOU MENTIONED THAT YOU WERE INSPIRED BY A BJÖRK CONCERT YOU ATTENDED.

BJORK'S CONCERT WAS MORE THAN INSPIRATIONAL; IT WAS A REMINDER OF POSITIVE THOUGHTS AND EMOTIONS. SHE WAS ARTICULATE AND PERSUASIVE, WITH A STRONG AWARENESS OF SOCIAL ISSUES. SEEING HER LIKE THAT MAKES ME ASK MYSELF IF I MIGHT NEED TO BE MORE ACTIVE. BUT THAT IS NOT JUST A PESSIMISTIC WAY OF PUTTING IT; I BELIEVE THERE IS HOPE IN CREATING SOMETHING. THE WORLD WE LIVE IN IS A PLACE WHERE SPLENDOR AND DISAPPOINTMENT ARE NEXT TO EACH OTHER. SO, I FOCUS ON THAT REALITY IN EVERYTHING I DO.

RICK OWENS' CLOTHES ARE SURPRISING AND IMPRESSIVE WHEN YOU TOUCH THEM. ONE EXAMPLE IS USING UNEXPECTED MATERIALS SUCH AS TRANSLUCENT COWHIDE AND PIRARUCU SKIN. FUSING THESE MATERIALS WITH A CREATIVE APPROACH TO SILHOUETTES AND SHAPES IS ALSO A MASTERSTROKE. WHAT ARE YOU MOST CONSCIOUS OF WHEN CHOOSING UNIQUE FABRICS AND SILHOUETTES?

SPEAKING OF SILHOUETTES, I AM PARTICULARLY FOND OF DESIGNS THAT BREAK UP THE BODY SILHOUETTE. FOR EXAMPLE, I AM FASCINATED BY STYLES THAT ARE DIFFERENT FROM THE REST, SUCH AS SILHOUETTES THAT BREAK THE STEREOTYPES OF THE BODY SHAPE AND OFFER A NEW INTERPRETATION, RATHER THAN A BLOUSE AND AN A-LINE SKIRT WITH A MARY JANE. MY FIRST DESIGN WAS A PLAIN T-SHIRT, BUT I DARED TO MAKE THE LENGTH AND SLEEVES A LITTLE LONGER. IT IS A SUBTLE DIFFERENCE, BUT I AM CONSCIOUS OF DESIGNING UNCONVENTIONALLY BY CHOOSING MATERIALS AND EXAGGERATED SILHOUETTES UNAVAILABLE ELSEWHERE. THIS AWARENESS OF DESIGN STEMS FROM MY UPBRINGING. I GREW UP IN A CONSERVATIVE AND CRITICAL FAMILY ENVIRONMENT. I DEVELOPED A SENSE OF RIVALRY FROM BEING IN THAT CONSERVATIVE ENVIRONMENT. IT IS MY RESPONSIBILITY TO BROADEN THE EXISTING AESTHETIC STANDARDS THAT TEND TO NARROW AND TO SHOW WHAT IS POSSIBLE.

THE DRESSES MADE OF PIRARUCU SKIN ARE PARTICULARLY IMPRESSIVE. WHAT MADE YOU FOCUS ON SUCH MATERIALS?

PIRARUCU IS CONSUMED FOR FOOD, BUT THE SKIN IS DISPOSED OF AS WASTE. HOWEVER, BY TURNING PIRARUCU SKINS, WHICH ARE USUALLY DISCARDED, INTO A PRODUCT, WE ARE ABLE TO SUPPORT THE AMAZONIAN COMMUNITY. IT LOOKS EERILY LIKE DINOSAUR SKIN, BUT TRANSFORMING IT INTO A BEAUTIFUL CREATION IS FASCINATING, AND FOR ME, IT IS THE PERFECT LEATHER MATERIAL. IT ALSO MEANS I CAN REDUCE WASTE AND GIVE BACK TO THE LOCAL COMMUNITY.

PLEASE TELL US ABOUT YOUR VISION AND GOALS FOR THE NEXT 10 YEARS.

IT'S ABOUT GETTING BETTER. I WANT TO BE AS VOCAL AS POSSIBLE ON ISSUES OF INCLUSION, BIAS, AND DISCRIMINATION. AS I HAVE TOLD MY TEAM, I WOULD LIKE TO PLACE MORE IMPORTANCE ON GROWTH THAN EXPANDING THE BRAND. I'M GRATEFUL FOR EVERYTHING I'VE ACCOMPLISHED, BUT I'D RATHER STAY HUMBLE THAN GAIN STATUS OR POWER. FASHION OFTEN GETS CAUGHT UP IN EGO AND STATUS, BUT I WANT TO FOCUS ON FASHION'S GENTLE AND SOFTER SIDE.

COULD YOU DESCRIBE THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN YOU AND MICHELE LAMY IN ONE WORD?

SYMBIOSIS.

WHY DID YOU CHOOSE THIS WORD?

SYMBIOSIS MEANS TO COMPLEMENT EACH OTHER. WHAT I HAVE, SHE DOES NOT HAVE. CONVERSELY, I DON'T HAVE WHAT SHE HAS. IT'S A GOOD HARMONY.